924Board.org

[924RACR]

I know what you mean, Tim, I hate selling stuff because of having to deal with buyers...

You've got work to do with the hatch leaks; at the same time realize (not sure if this has been covered) that a leaking rubber shift boot can allow CO in. And I've driven a car with exhaust leaks, I agree it sucks. Make sure that the rubber shift boot is sealing properly.

I forget, on the early cars is there a double boot? On the later cars with leather shifter covers, there's a separate rubber one underneath.

Another thing that can come into play is leaks in the exhaust system itself... when we had the exhaust in my racecar terminating just in front of the rear axle, under the car, I got a fair bit of fumes inside (in spite of running, per the rules, with windows down). Since we moved it all the way out back to the rear bumper, the fumes are far better. You can expect the same effect if the exhaust system is leaking. To determine this, let the car idle and listen under the car body (hood closed) for exhaust noise - that's the best way I found. I suppose you could alternatively seal the tailpipe, like with your hand (or a banana ) and see if it stalls or not. If it doesn't, that's a darn sure sign that it's leaking!

One final note on fumes, I replaced the rear hatch seal on my daily driver turbo. Cut it a little short; with shrinkage, it left a small gap (maybe 1cm) between the ends, in the center above the lock. This would allow fumes in. I finally addressed this by padding and taping over that gap (with gaffer's tape) to complete the seal. Cheaper than buying another $70+ seal, and looks fine. Plus I don't have fumes anymore.

Look on the bright side; aside from exhaust leaks, which I would have handled by any local exhaust shop, the possible fixes to your fumes problem are all cheap!

But as pointed out, make sure you occasionally start the car - I'd plan on at least once a month - and let it warm up fully, to make sure you don't have any issues with the fuel system from sitting.

And I do agree, your persistence shows your commitment. Don't let the bastard get you down!
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[82-924]

This is great fun as well as educational.
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1982 924 n/a

[doomer77]

i originally voted for tim to keep his car, but now i change my mind.

tim you do not possess the social skills needed to listen to people and take advice, you just keep repeating that you are going to take it to a mechanic, well if you dont listen to us, we are not needed, yes?

i hope you had lots of fun working with it and owning it, but now its time to throw in the glove, get another car

cheers,
Erik
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[timstar92404]

ok thanks, I'll run the car once a month, batter will probably die though. I disconnect the ground when the car is sitting to help.

I covered my exhaust before for a few seconds and I didn't see it stalling but there was alot of pressure it was really hard to hold it tight. I saw white smoke coming out of the seams on the muffler.

when i removed my shifter boot the seal under there which you can also see from beneath the car is ripped but people here said that it was not a replaceable thing. someone mentioned I should use a "styrofoam" sealants spray.

other thing I thought is that my engine could be producing so much pollution / CO . Opening my windows turns the CO reading to 0 but the headaches don't get better.
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78 924 sold.
85.5 944

[Slam]

Just ditch the exhaust system and put in a new/good used one. You can get the whole thing for less than about $250CDN. End of problem (probably) and end of endless posting. You've wasted so much time and effort! Why bother with nickel and dime testing and good enuff fixes? Junk what's junk and replace it. Then you can move on to the next issue.

And the next...

And the next...

And the next...

Why do we bother?
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'88 944 Auto - may or may not resurrect

[924RACR]

Sure, some spray insulation could be used, but given what you've said about the exhaust sounds somewhat unlikely that's the root cause. Back to the hatch (no pun intended)...

As for the tuning - regardless of the mixture setting, exhaust fumes will make you sick regardless. Just focus on the hatch leaks.

If you run the car long enough to warm it up (on the temp gauge) and then disconnect the battery between these occurences, you shouldn't have the battery die - unless it's dying anyway. If you really want to be sure, bring it inside when you're not running the car.

Oh, BTW, Slam - I always nickel and dime things that don't need money to fix - like electrical stuff. Throwing cash/new parts at the problem doesn't guarantee a fix - only addressing the root causes will. The rest is bandaids and a waste of time/money.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Chrenan]

I think the root cause in this case is the owner, not the car.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[Neil924]

[Ozzie]

At the moment his car is running.
He has high CO level in the car.
His rear hatch does not fit properly and his new seal does not seal of course.
He has done everything except fit his hatch properly- has been suggested many times.
He also feels air blowing through the shifter but hasn't resealed that either.
His exhaust has been checked- how thoroughly is anyones guess.

He doesn't read or ignores members posts/suggestions and I am following Khal's lead from now on- not responding to his posts.
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

[Neil924]