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924 Potential?

 
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SoCalLove  



Joined: 23 Aug 2005
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:05 am    Post subject: 924 Potential? Reply with quote

Hi,

I'm going to be purchasing a Porsche 924 soon. Unfortunately soon it won't be an S because this will be my daily driver and I heard that 924S' are less reliable that a regular 924 (If I'm wrong about this, someone please set me straight).

Anyways, I would eventually like to make it faster. What options are available to me? Could I get things like an intake, ehuast, headers, etc? Also, eventually, if I really wanted to, is there an option of a supercharger or turbocharger?

Thank you!
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81turbo  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 1065
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A properly running and maintained "S" should be just as reliable if not more than a older non EFI 924. If I were buying the car for a daily driver it would surely be a 924S.

Thankfully my car is a weekend number so I bought the turbo!


Either way as far as power goes on a daily driver I would leave them stock. There isn't a ton of upgrade potential on either model. If you want a fast car go buy one. The 924 is a very fun car but it is just not fast. The only model that has great upgrade potential is the turbo.
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Khal  



Joined: 26 Sep 2003
Posts: 4872
Location: Sunny and lovely interior BC, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

81turbo wrote:
Thankfully my car is a weekend number so I bought the turbo!


Me too!

And completely agree with the rest of what 81 Turbo has said.

I don't know who gave you the idea that a 924S was less reliable than the 924 but I certainly doubt it'd be the case.

A 924S is just plain newer for a start. Over a decade newer if you compare an original (say '77) 924 with the last of the 924S ('88?).

I may get barred from the 'board for saying this but I have no doubt the engine in the 924S is far superior in every way to the old 924 lump. I just can't imagine the old VW/Audi clunker being anywhere near as reliable as the newer (and completely Porsche) 924S engine *ducks for cover*

Everything on the 924S has been updated/upgraded from the original 924. In practical terms, it's a (early) 944 with the 924 skin.

That being said, if something drastic does goes wrong, the 924S will be more expensive to repair...
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

81turbo wrote:
A properly running and maintained "S" should be just as reliable if not more than a older non EFI 924


Khal wrote:
...I have no doubt the engine in the 924S is far superior in every way to the old 924 lump. I just can't imagine the old VW/Audi clunker being anywhere near as reliable as the newer (and completely Porsche) 924S engine...


I pretty much agree with 81tubo & Khal here, but understand that the 924S (or a 944) will be A LOT more expensive to maintain that the '77 to '82 924.
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Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual
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CBass  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 2807
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a factory turbocharged model with upgrade potential to around 220hp with the right bolt ons, and with new pistons, EFI and a new turbocharger, 300+ hp is attainable. That's a lot of custom work though...

The stock 924 2.0 is a pretty useless engine. It's not especially smooth, you won't get more than 130hp out of it without extensive head work, and even then you're going to be lucky to make 160hp, and that'll take premium gas and a lumpy idle.

The 924S comes stock with almost that much power, although it's a heavier car than the early 924. Maintenance is more expensive than an early car, as it has the 944 engine which requires an expensive regular servicing, as well as more expensive parts of everything.

If you're looking for a 924 or 924 Turbo, get an '80, '81 or '82 model for the naturally aspirated models, and an '81 or '82 for the Turbos. The cars received an evolutionary developement, and the last years are the best for use as a daily driver. Try not to buy a car that has been off the road for a while, especially not if it has been outdoors. The fuel injection system can get a little gunked up if left to sit for a while, although it's no big deal to flush it out.

Look out for water leaks, bring a liter of water and pour it into the battery tray and look for leaks from underneath. If the seller won't let you do this, it probably leaks anyways. That's a pretty tricky leak to fix, and it can get pretty bad if it's been covered up or neglected.

Remember, there are lots of 924's out there, take your time and find a good one that's in good running condition, and for god's sake, have a mechanic inspect the car before buying it.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know what I wish for CBass a suspension that would
kick butt like some nice coilovers in the rear and maybe
brakes that would skidd if you pushed hard enough.
Like a new floor with a pedal brake and clutch sys,
maybe a tilton pedal assembly mc. they start out at 185.bucks
Thats for a overhung mount. I would have to find out the ratio
6.2 or5.5 what ever thats for. Guy could fab up a bar sys. I imagine
or get the firewall mount they cost a guy 230 bucks though.
Then for the mc you only have to spend 80.00 bucks tops.
Good luck socal.
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CBass  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 2807
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joes924Racer wrote:
You know what I wish for CBass a suspension that would
kick butt like some nice coilovers in the rear


I've thought about this too, and luckily Paragon Products offers a set of Koni's. Not so luckily, they're very expensive. They have a custom threaded shock body, which is why they are $900 USD. What I'm considering is making a set of aluminum sleeves and cutting a circlip groove into a pair of Koni's, and making a set of custom upper spring seats.

Here's what paragon products offers.

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/koni_944rearcupkit.htm

For those, I think you'd have to convert to alloy rear arms.

Joes924Racer wrote:

and maybe brakes that would skidd if you pushed hard enough.
Like a new floor with a pedal brake and clutch sys,
maybe a tilton pedal assembly mc. they start out at 185.bucks
Thats for a overhung mount. I would have to find out the ratio
6.2 or5.5 what ever thats for. Guy could fab up a bar sys. I imagine
or get the firewall mount they cost a guy 230 bucks though.
Then for the mc you only have to spend 80.00 bucks tops.
Good luck socal.


Interesting idea, I don't have any real plans for my pedals. After learning to heel-toe on a Rabbit, the stock 924 pedals are a blessing. The firewall could sure use a bit of reinforcement in a few places though...
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Darin81T  



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
Posts: 124
Location: Vader, WA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are a little cheaper....
http://www.klaindustries.net/rearcoil/rearcoil.htm
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9107
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see why to go to all that trouble to dick with the brakes... still great stock!
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Eturbo924  



Joined: 09 Nov 2002
Posts: 2212
Location: Londonderry NH

PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok here is my take.

The 924S. Newer, smoother, a bit quieter and definately more powerful. It also comes standard with better brakes than the standard drum disc combination on the 924. It has a better stereo set up... better ventalation than the 1982 and earlier 924s. The 1982.5 924 changed the ventalation controls.

Anyway that said. "IN MY OPINION" The 2.0L 924 is much easier to work on for the back yard mechanic. Also I do not think the engine is as bad as everyone says. It will never be a powerhouse with out some major modifications... but it is a decent engine with good gas mileage. It is also very hard to destroy. You basically need to either run it out of oil or coolant. They do have their issues but nothing like the 924S motor.

So things that the 924S has issues on the the 924 2.0 does not. Well... snap or jump a timing belt in a 924S and the engine is junk, slave cylinders in the clutch system leak and fail, rubber centered clutches fail, power steering racks leak and fail, Sunroof power pop up mechanisms fail. Those are the major cost implications on the 924S vers the 924.

Now what would I want for a daily driver? Probably the 924S because it has more power and smoother engine.

But... to say one is more reliable than the other is very tough. The reason being... if either one was properly treated it will serve you well... but if one was and one was not... obviously the one with better maint history is likely to be the best pick.

Also ... the 924 2.0L will up front cost be at a minium of 1$K cheaper. Unless you are fooled into paying big bucks for a 2.0L.

Ok I have babbled enough.

Eric
www.geocities.com/eturbo924
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"What I'm considering is making a set of aluminum sleeves and cutting a circlip groove into a pair of Koni's, and making a set of custom upper spring seats. "

Koni just beat you to it... sleeves sell for around $110AUS a corner
Leadfoot
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CBass  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:
"What I'm considering is making a set of aluminum sleeves and cutting a circlip groove into a pair of Koni's, and making a set of custom upper spring seats. "

Koni just beat you to it... sleeves sell for around $110AUS a corner
Leadfoot


For the rears? I have seen front kits readily available but the only rear coilovers I have seen are threaded body types, and are pretty expensive.
I don't think it would be all that hard to adapt a generic aftermarket kit for a similar length shock, but you'd need an upper spring mount and a spring seat, either circlip style or welded.
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes for the front or rears
Sleeve is electroplated steel, welded or circlip attachment...
upper and lower spring seats are anodised high-grade aluminium... lower spring seat has locking ring too.
suit shock absorber diameters from 41 - 55mm
spring seat diameters 53 - 65mm
Leadfoot
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