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Paint - matching old and new paint....

 
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Petrovich  



Joined: 27 Sep 2005
Posts: 235
Location: Rockville, MD

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 3:49 am    Post subject: Paint - matching old and new paint.... Reply with quote

Here's the deal: the car was painted a few years ago, into what the previous owner told me "original red color". Actually, it's a bit orangeish, but that's alright. The big problem is, it was done MACO-style, with overspray on the radiator, paint on minor trim pieces here and there, etc... But that's fine, most of it can be taken care of with a can of black spraypaint and a sharp razor. The big problem is, either they didn't paint the doors, or the doors are from another car. And the matching job is piss-poor, naturally. The paint is of the same feel, texture, and looks almost the same, BUT! When it gets darker, you can easily see that doors are not as bright and have less of an orange shade to them. Anything I can do to address that, besides repainting the whole car? Deep-polish the doors? Is there something I could add to the wax to make the rest of the paint slightly darker after polishing it?... Like some sort of pigment... The door paint actually looks nicer than the rest of the car, IMO. Again, not a serious difference, but I'm on a quest to perfection here
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ATL_racer  



Joined: 09 Aug 2005
Posts: 97
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i cold just be the technique of the paint job on the doors. Better quality. Maybe wetsanded before clearcoat, or even more layers of paint.

Best bet would be to compound and polish the car(make sure you know what your doing, otherwise youll end up with nasty swirl marks) and see if that makes any difference.
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late 1979 porche 924, red 2.0l NA 5speed snailshell
Plans: Restore exterior, revitalize interior, install killer sound system, run engine in stock form and have fun.(+ a short throw shifter if i can find one)
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Khal  



Joined: 26 Sep 2003
Posts: 4872
Location: Sunny and lovely interior BC, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ATL_racer wrote:
Best bet would be to compound and polish the car(make sure you know what your doing, otherwise youll end up with nasty swirl marks) and see if that makes any difference.


Agreed. A proper cut'n polish can work miracles for paintwork -not just hand polishing but get a proper cutting compound and a proper polishing pad (y'know, those ones that fit to an angle-grinder).

But you also probably have to consider the rotational speed of the polishing pad, too. Your average angle-grinder may not be suitable. I suspect any local industrial equipment hire place could hire you a proper polishing tool..?

While I think about, for the paint gurus out there, do you need to do anything special if it's been clear-coated? I image a cut'n polish may just strip the clear-coat off (not good?) if it's got it?
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Petrovich  



Joined: 27 Sep 2005
Posts: 235
Location: Rockville, MD

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of those polishing devices (rather low-powered, but spins fast), which worked wonders on my friend's Probe, so I can certainly polish the car. BTW, the doors ARE older, there's a chip I found on the new paint where you can see the old paint, it's the same tone as the doors (slightly darker). Also, knowing that they sprayed right on top of the old paint without sanding it much doesn't make me more comfortable
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:26 am    Post subject: Paint Reply with quote

One way to check for clear coat is to see what is on the buffing pad. If the pad matches the car, then it does not have clear coat.

Depending on your skill level. You can actually wet send the car with 2000 to smooth out the paint. This will take a lot of the fading away, and make the paint smooth as glass. They you will need to polish the paint back to a brilliant shine, and then a coat of way.

Wet sanding is an art, and requires a skill to do it right. The results are amazing when done.
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Petrovich  



Joined: 27 Sep 2005
Posts: 235
Location: Rockville, MD

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the surface is alright, actually - doors are a bit darker than the rest of the car, but they're still shiny. However... There's no way I can get rid of orange peel if it's 5 years old, right?... Crappy paint jobs suck.
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ATL_racer  



Joined: 09 Aug 2005
Posts: 97
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anything painted in the last 10years should have clearcoat on it. Compound and polish does take clear coat off, but you can compound and polish a car 10times before you coat is thin enough to worry about.
1000rpm is good speed with most compounds. You can use a wool pad, but foam is recomended. Also make sure after the compound to use a non-carnuba based polish/wax. Carnuba is great on non-clearcoated cars and now they make clear coat safe carnuba products, a proper polymer based wax is always better. And when buying wax, you normally get what you pay for.

and by the way, my father own a car wash/ detail center.
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late 1979 porche 924, red 2.0l NA 5speed snailshell
Plans: Restore exterior, revitalize interior, install killer sound system, run engine in stock form and have fun.(+ a short throw shifter if i can find one)
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ATL_racer  



Joined: 09 Aug 2005
Posts: 97
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And whoever said it is right, if the pad is the color of the paint, then there is no clear, if the pad is the color of the wax(and will probably be darker than the wax b/c of dirt and clearcoat) then it's clear coated.

A double-wash is always a good idea also before waxing. Make sure it is as clean as possible.
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late 1979 porche 924, red 2.0l NA 5speed snailshell
Plans: Restore exterior, revitalize interior, install killer sound system, run engine in stock form and have fun.(+ a short throw shifter if i can find one)
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wuilman  



Joined: 18 Mar 2003
Posts: 93
Location: san francisco california

PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:09 pm    Post subject: paint Reply with quote

what ever you do,dont try to turn a grinder into a polisher! way too fast, not everything painted in the past 10 years uses base/clear paint ( i used to be a painter at a body shop)the MAX speed is 3000 rpm and thats super fast for polishing, now as far as different shades of paint goes its a crappy match (painters fault) polishing wont make it match better but itle make it harder to notice in direct sun.litle tip wool pads are for buffing and waxing after you buff with wool is highly recommended. foam pads are for polishing, there is a difference between buffing and polishing but thats another post. um....what else...oh clay bars! please b4 you even think about buffing clay bar or youlle get pig tails! dam theres too much to write and im getting lazy so maybe ill write a how to.
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