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WUR - Warm Air Regulator - or Control Pressure Regulator

 
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:23 am    Post subject: WUR - Warm Air Regulator - or Control Pressure Regulator Reply with quote

What is the best way to remove and replace the WUR? I have checked Haynes, Clymer and Chilton on the proper way of removal. No detailed info.

Any ideas? Estimated time to R & R?
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well there isnt really any info that I am aware of to rebuild them, but perhaps do a board search,

as per removal/reinstall,
take the coil out of its bracket, and you can then get at it,
the tools needed for the WUR, a 12mm wrench, a 14mm wrench, and a 6 mm allen key,
to get the coil out you will need a 10mm wrench/socket, and possibly a flat head crewdriver,
that should be all, just dont drop the 4 crush washers for the WUR, and when you reinstall do NOT over torque the banjo bolts as they tend to break easy and then you will be in a bind trying to find one.
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:52 am    Post subject: WUR Remove and replace Reply with quote

Do you remove the WUR first than the lines? Or lines and then WUR?

Thanks for your help.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can do it either way, but I normally removed the top line and just loosened the bottom line,
I found it was easier to NOT loose the crush rings if I removed the bolt once it was in my hand
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:06 am    Post subject: Thanks for you help. Reply with quote

Thanks for you help again. I should get the WUR tomorrow.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was also looking in Haynes and I couldn't find much info on the wur or how to test it.

I thought my low iddling problem during warm up might be due to the wur so I want to know how you can test it.


new wurs are pretty expensive around 240 U.S so I don't want to guess mine is bad.
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:23 pm    Post subject: WUR Reply with quote

Check out the following Website:


www.rockauto.com

WUR - Beck Arnley == $70.79 with 17.00 core charge. Rebuilt

I also purchased fuel injectors. Beck Arnley $38.79 Each.

Rock Auto has all items shipped dirctly from Factory Warehouse points. They will send e-mails about your order, and you can check your tracking of the order.

One thing to keep in mind, a 30 year old Porsche parts are not keep in any real quanitities at warehouses. I order the WUR on Saturday and it should arrive today Monday. The warehouse only had one unit.

I have been real happy with Beck Arnley parts. They just fit right.

All amounts are US Dollars.
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3158
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

timstar92404 wrote:
I was also looking in Haynes and I couldn't find much info on the wur or how to test it.

I thought my low iddling problem during warm up might be due to the wur so I want to know how you can test it.


new wurs are pretty expensive around 240 U.S so I don't want to guess mine is bad.


Only reliable way is to use the pressure gauges and carry out the tests per the Haynes manual. As Lizard pointed out, they don't seem to lend themselves to being rebuilt by the average DIY'er. Maybe someone has had success and would like to share the info?

You can find less expensive WUR's out there, just have to look. Beck-Arnley and Echlin make them also and sell through NAPAOnline.com.

Removing the coil makes the job 10 times easier. No need to remove the wires to the coil, just slide it out and set it ontop of the R2D2 cover. Takes about 20 minutes to R&R. You want to unscrew your fuel filler cap on the gas tank to relieve any pressure in the tank. I forgot to do that and had fuel running out of the return line at a pretty good rate. Take a look at the fuel schematic in the Haynes to identify which is which.

Also disconnect the battery when doing this, since you'll have raw gas/fumes around in the coil area. Let it evaporate before reattaching the cables.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and don't smoke!
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had too many bad experiences with Beck-Arnley parts, would never buy them again, especially not for a WUR. JMO.
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IXLOR8  



Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:10 am    Post subject: WUR Reply with quote

I had great success with replacing the WUR on my 77 924. The car starts up after running - engine warm, the idle has smooth out, lots more power.

Thanks for your help!
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please post back if you have problems with the Beck Arnley part. I've heard the same as Vaughan and am curious now. If you don't have a problem, it would be a good source for the WUR for others.
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