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IXLOR8
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 49
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:23 am Post subject: WUR - Warm Air Regulator - or Control Pressure Regulator |
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What is the best way to remove and replace the WUR? I have checked Haynes, Clymer and Chilton on the proper way of removal. No detailed info.
Any ideas? Estimated time to R & R? _________________ Wisconsin |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:28 am Post subject: |
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well there isnt really any info that I am aware of to rebuild them, but perhaps do a board search,
as per removal/reinstall,
take the coil out of its bracket, and you can then get at it,
the tools needed for the WUR, a 12mm wrench, a 14mm wrench, and a 6 mm allen key,
to get the coil out you will need a 10mm wrench/socket, and possibly a flat head crewdriver,
that should be all, just dont drop the 4 crush washers for the WUR, and when you reinstall do NOT over torque the banjo bolts as they tend to break easy and then you will be in a bind trying to find one. _________________ 3 928s, |
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IXLOR8
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 49
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:52 am Post subject: WUR Remove and replace |
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Do you remove the WUR first than the lines? Or lines and then WUR?
Thanks for your help. _________________ Wisconsin |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:02 am Post subject: |
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you can do it either way, but I normally removed the top line and just loosened the bottom line,
I found it was easier to NOT loose the crush rings if I removed the bolt once it was in my hand  _________________ 3 928s, |
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IXLOR8
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 49
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:06 am Post subject: Thanks for you help. |
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Thanks for you help again. I should get the WUR tomorrow. _________________ Wisconsin |
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timstar92404

Joined: 22 Sep 2004 Posts: 2075 Location: richmond BC
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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I was also looking in Haynes and I couldn't find much info on the wur or how to test it.
I thought my low iddling problem during warm up might be due to the wur so I want to know how you can test it.
new wurs are pretty expensive around 240 U.S so I don't want to guess mine is bad. _________________ 78 924 sold.
85.5 944 |
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IXLOR8
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 49
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:23 pm Post subject: WUR |
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Check out the following Website:
www.rockauto.com
WUR - Beck Arnley == $70.79 with 17.00 core charge. Rebuilt
I also purchased fuel injectors. Beck Arnley $38.79 Each.
Rock Auto has all items shipped dirctly from Factory Warehouse points. They will send e-mails about your order, and you can check your tracking of the order.
One thing to keep in mind, a 30 year old Porsche parts are not keep in any real quanitities at warehouses. I order the WUR on Saturday and it should arrive today Monday. The warehouse only had one unit.
I have been real happy with Beck Arnley parts. They just fit right.
All amounts are US Dollars. _________________ Wisconsin |
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D Hook

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 3158 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:24 am Post subject: |
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| timstar92404 wrote: | I was also looking in Haynes and I couldn't find much info on the wur or how to test it.
I thought my low iddling problem during warm up might be due to the wur so I want to know how you can test it.
new wurs are pretty expensive around 240 U.S so I don't want to guess mine is bad. |
Only reliable way is to use the pressure gauges and carry out the tests per the Haynes manual. As Lizard pointed out, they don't seem to lend themselves to being rebuilt by the average DIY'er. Maybe someone has had success and would like to share the info?
You can find less expensive WUR's out there, just have to look. Beck-Arnley and Echlin make them also and sell through NAPAOnline.com.
Removing the coil makes the job 10 times easier. No need to remove the wires to the coil, just slide it out and set it ontop of the R2D2 cover. Takes about 20 minutes to R&R. You want to unscrew your fuel filler cap on the gas tank to relieve any pressure in the tank. I forgot to do that and had fuel running out of the return line at a pretty good rate. Take a look at the fuel schematic in the Haynes to identify which is which.
Also disconnect the battery when doing this, since you'll have raw gas/fumes around in the coil area. Let it evaporate before reattaching the cables. _________________ '80 924 n/a SOLD |
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Mike924

Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:05 am Post subject: |
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...and don't smoke!  _________________ 1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd
'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org |
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924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9104 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 2:15 am Post subject: |
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I've had too many bad experiences with Beck-Arnley parts, would never buy them again, especially not for a WUR. JMO. _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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IXLOR8
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 49
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:10 am Post subject: WUR |
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I had great success with replacing the WUR on my 77 924. The car starts up after running - engine warm, the idle has smooth out, lots more power.
Thanks for your help! _________________ Wisconsin |
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D Hook

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 3158 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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Please post back if you have problems with the Beck Arnley part. I've heard the same as Vaughan and am curious now. If you don't have a problem, it would be a good source for the WUR for others. _________________ '80 924 n/a SOLD |
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