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Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

Well, installation of the Bilsteins went well on the weekend, everything is done, new shocks on all 4 corners, new control arms (seam welded) and bushings and and ball joints and tie rods and tie rod ends and wheel bearings etc etc etc. Basically wanted to hit as much as I could while I was in there.

Got the alignment done, and it drives very nicely. Quite stiff compared to the old worn out shocks (KYB's on the rear which were pretty useless). At slow speeds it is pretty choppy with the Bilsteins, but once the speed picks up a touch, it is very, very nice - so solid and stiff. Still early going, but I am very happy so far.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Gram · Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 5:03 am Post subject:

Sounds good..what model Bilsteins..?
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'82 924 NA Euro (hers)
'98 Audi A4 TDI (ours)

Lizard · Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 6:26 am Post subject:

Hey Chrenan,
did you put some atf in there with the bilsteins or did they say not to? or is it just for some brands of shocks that you do that with?
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3 928s,

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

The shocks are green on the back, and yellow with blue dust cover on the front.

Didn't add any ATF as the instructions that came with the shocks didn't say to, when in doubt follow what the manufacturer says I suppose...
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Lizard · Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 7:14 am Post subject:

agreed on that, I just wish that there was a standard on that.
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3 928s,

augidog · Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 1360 Location: New Jersey

It's funny; I'm doing the same thing this week but putting in KYB's
I just finished the front left. I had a bent stabilizer arm so I pounded it straight and did some new rubbers at their connection and a new ball joint. I also cleaned the arm off and threw on some new paint.It's funny how much better you feel about the repair if its clean and painted. It sits much higher now and I can really tell the difference in just the stationary bounce from right to left side.

I tell you I saved a lot of time and took the shock and strut down the road to a garage for replacement. I would highly recommend it. I started to mess with all the rented spring compressors and pipe wrenches and seized nuts and said forget it.
It was the best $35.00 I spent in a while. Tomorrow is the other side and rears.
I can't wait to road test.
Any hints about removing the rear shocks? It seems ez enough.
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1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.

Lizard · Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 10:09 am Post subject:

the rears are easy, just make sure you have a jack to get some weight off the rear
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3 928s,

CBass · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 2807 Location: Vancouver, Canada

So what's the trick to making the rear shock install removal easy? Jack the car with the wheels still on the ground or what?
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'81 931 in various states of assembly

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

Here's what I did for the rears. Leave the wheels on, jack up the rear of the car and use a jack stand under each torsion bar extension (that thing sticking out just in front of the rear wheels). Now you've got the rear wheels dangling off the ground. Apply the parking break, place your jack under one of the rear tires and raise the jack so it just takes the weight of the wheel. Now, you basically have the shock fully extended and everything supported, so when you remove the bolts at the top and the bottom nothing will shift. Remove the bolts and you should be able to compress the old shock by hand to manouver it out of place. Then, compress the new shock by hand (harder than with the old shock, but doable with some grunt). Quickly get the compressed new shock under the car and get it into the upper mount and slip the bolt into place. As the new shock slowly expands, it will line up with the bottom hole if you guide it correctly. Slip the bottom bolt through, torque the upper and lower nuts (maybe with some loctite) and you're done. Should take an hour to do both sides if you are slow and careful like me...
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

CBass · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 2807 Location: Vancouver, Canada

That's pretty much what I did, but it was still a PITA on my car no matter how I jacked the wheel.
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'81 931 in various states of assembly

Lizard · Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 8:38 am Post subject:

I just jacked it up in the same spot as stated and then pulled the tire off, and you kind of have to play the jack under the shock support to find just the right height for the bolt to slide out
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3 928s,

tj924 · Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 10:35 am Post subject:

I gather then that the rear is easier than the front because you don't need a spring compressor like you do with the front?
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TJ
Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual

Lizard · Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 11:13 am Post subject:

Correct tj
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3 928s,

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

The front is definitely a little more involved, but not too hard, just more time consuming.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Joes924Racer · Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2005 1:29 pm Post subject:

Right on way to go.
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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.