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timstar92404 · Joined: 22 Sep 2004 Posts: 2075 Location: richmond BC

what is the proper way. I cut a bunch of wires (going to the fan switch/ fan motor) too short and need to extend them.

I bought some 14 gauge wires / reg solder . so do you just strip both ends and solder on an extension and then electical tape up the bare wire/ soldeer?

should you twist the wires around each other or solder them next to each other.

I already soldered it but I have to cut it even shorter as I did a crappy soldering job and i'm not sure if it will last. I need a hotter soldering iron mine was an old one I found thats 30 watts and it barely melted the thick sodler.

thanks.

and another thing how are you suppose to tighten the "crimp lugs" (female) when you put the wires in them, I tried tighening them onto the wire with a reg plier but it wouldnt' work so I used the wires cutter part of the plier ot tighten it , it works but it obviously damages the crim lug and I cut through one.

do you need special pliers?
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78 924 sold.
85.5 944

Peter_in_AU · Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 2745 Location: Sydney, Australia

For me, twist and solder and then heat-shrink. Electrical tape never stands up well to the temperature range in auto wiring.
_________________
1979 924 (Gone to a better place)
1974 Lotus 7 S4 "Big Valve" Twin-cam (waiting)
1982 924 (As featured on Wikipedia)

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Ozzie · Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 9:49 pm Post subject:

Solder is definitely the best and heat shrink.
If you have to crimp buy crimping pliers.
My linesman pliers cost $40 but have a crimper in the handle, probably overkill for cars but I use it for a lot of other things as well.
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
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924RACR · Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 10:38 pm Post subject:

I always solder and heat-shrink when wiring, does a much better job of keeping corrosion out than tape.

Your problems with your soldering iron may just be that the tip is dirty. Try scraping it clean and shiny with sandpaper, then flow a little fresh solder on it once heated up. It should work much better.

On the subject of crimping - yes, you need crimping pliers. The very best for the most reliable crimps are the ratcheting style, which will not release until a full solid crimp is made. I also like to solder my crimp connectors whenever possible.
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
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Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

I've had to do this a bit on my car, even on the rad fan when I replaced the single fan with the dual fan setup. I crimp both ends into a butt connector, "dribble" solder down either end of the butt connector for an extra seal, then heat shrink. I've never had a problem using this method.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

924RACR · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 1:54 am Post subject:

Yeah, in fact there are butt connectors which are made of heat-shrink material - crimp then heat to seal, pretty nice.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

924guy · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 2:47 am Post subject:

I "weave" the two wire ends together. make a right angle on each of the wire ends, twist those around each other a few times, then over and around the opposite wire, then soldier. it comes out almost like a braid. insulate with heatshrink, and your done, itll never come loose. im not a big fan of butt connectors, and consider them a temporary fix, but will use them on occasion where i cant soldier, or am in a hurry.
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78 924
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timstar92404 · Joined: 22 Sep 2004 Posts: 2075 Location: richmond BC

anyone mind telling me what "heat shrink " is and how it looks like?

and how to use it.

thanks.

I just put the two seperate wires parallel to each other and solder them.

but I have a 30 watt dirty soldeirng iron and I did a terrible job witha huge blob of solder that didn't melt fully.

I'll have ot redo it.
_________________
78 924 sold.
85.5 944

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 6:16 am Post subject:

I use the bend, twist, solder and heatshrink technique as 924guy described.
You can get heat shrink tubing at Radio Shack or any electrical or electronics supply place.
To solder, first "tin" the tip as was described earlier. With the iron fully heated, hold a tinned area of the tip against the bare wire to be soldered and feed some solder right in there where the tip and wire meet. Continue holding the iron on the wire 'til you get a good flow and cover the whole exposed area of wire. -Then remove the iron, but don't let the soldered joint move until it's cooled. If done correctly you should be left with shiney solder - if it moves while cooling, it'll be dull looking.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 6:23 am Post subject:

To use heatshrink tubing, just select a size that will be big enough to slide over the soldered joint when it's finished and cut it to an appropriate length. Slip it onto one of the wires -before- soldering

and keep it far enough away from the joint so that it won't start to shrink while you're soldering

. Once the soldering's done [and cooled], slide the heat shrink tube over the joint and shrink it with a heat gun, hair dryer or by moving a lit lighter back and forth below it.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

jpab924 · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 2:00 pm Post subject:

Mike924 · Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK

I know I'm going against the grain here, but I'm not a big fan of solder in automotive applications. The joint is just a little bit too brittle, and stresses the point where the solder joints the regular wire. Heat shrink sleeving helps to alleviate this, sure.

I've always used crimp butt joints, but I recognise that sometimes it's difficult to get a really tight joint with home equipment, especially with thin guage wires. Professional, rachet-type crimpers are better, but who can afford those? If you're doing a major re-wiring job, maybe they're worth it.

Butt joints with built-in heat shrink seem a neat idea, but I've never seen them over here. But, then, it's difficult to get anything decent here.
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1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
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