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83 924 NA Diagnostic ! PLEASE !
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:36 pm    Post subject: 83 924 NA Diagnostic ! PLEASE ! Reply with quote

ok...i realise that i'm a pain in the ass for you guys...and many of you dont read this because its simply booring or i look dumb to you...but i have to talk and explain what i am going trough to someone....since all mechanics have turned me down...dont i ?
so...i'll try to explain so you dont have to read all the thread.
The car ran perfectly...until i unmounted the engine
Now the car starts easy...and while engine is cold it idles at 2000 RPM as soon as it get warm it drops to 1100 and dies...while warm engine wont idle and WONT go over 5000 RPM standing and 3500 RPM while driving
Also if i give it throtle all the way or just a bit of throtle while its ideling it wont run...it dosent die but it produces blue smoke(dont ever use Valvoline all climate for your engines...it is NOT good) it shutters and it sounds like running in 1 or 2 pistons....but if i give it throtle smoothly it will reach 5000 RPM standing and 3500 while driving.
I unmounted the perfectly working engine to change te clutch kit
took me 4-5 days since it is my first porsche and i was working in someones garage(mines is not well equiped) 25 Km away from home...so i did 50 Km per day with the tram to work on my car.
I unmounted everything...and while unmounted i reseted(turned counter-clockwise until 0 point ) the fuel mixture screw
After geting the parts..and mounting them i remounted everything...
Engine did not start since ignition timing was way off....weird tho the engine worked with that ignition configuration..after a few days of learning how engines work in every detail i got it started...but it reached no more than 4000 RPM....but it accelerated well until 4000...then i got the car home and i had an accident while towed...left door must be replaced
The car has been in the garage for 3 months now
I unmounted cheched cleaned and rechecked the following parts:
1. Fuel pressure regulator(electro-valve that bleeds fuel back into tank)
i checked it today...if + and - given correctly it opens
2. cold start fuel regulator..its input(the one with a fuel inpurity retainer) is blocked...i cant blow trough it....but this shouldnt affect the engine this way
3. Fuel pump...i've replaced the fuel pump(with an used mercedes one) and the car runs the same
4. Fuel injectors...they all spray
5. Replaced O-rings
6. unmounted fuel distributor covered all holes but its input and one of those 4 holes...blew trought input and checked all 4 injector leading holes....all symetrical...all working fine...
7. Replaced distributor cap
8. engine is alligned as it should be...signs are perfect
9. checked vacum lines and intake boots...all fine...no holes
10. sensor wires should be mounted in their place since i belive it is not possible to mount them in other places...ash the wire's lenght leads them..
It remains to check if the pressure regulator gets the 12V it needs and no electric damage has been made since i had a realy bad short lately...but car ran even after the short...
It only remains the spark distributor...i feared it was bad...and tought it was not since the throtle responded like engine was runing flooded....
Plug Sparks are black...and car eats A SHIT LOAD of gas...the car starts and runs ONLY if the fuel mixture screw is turned 6 OR 7 times from 0 Any 30° less than 6 360 turns or any 30° more than 7 turns kills the engine.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok i posted this before in a wrong place...I SWEAR I HAVE NO IDEEA WHAT THIS CAR HAS !

i overchecked fuel lines and vacums...fuel pressure and everything seems to be perfect...fuel distributor....
Today i unmounted and inspected the spark distributor....it looks perfect and i have no ideea why wouldnt it work....

i remounted it and started the car....when cold, engine reaches almost 6000RPM and idles at 2000(my settings) but as soon as it gets warm the idle rpm droms down and when i feed it gas it wont go over 4000 RPM
as soon as the engine is hot and ready to go..it wont idle...
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:59 am    Post subject: Re: 83 924 NA Diagnostic ! PLEASE ! Reply with quote

morghen wrote:

1. Fuel pressure regulator(electro-valve that bleeds fuel back into tank)
i checked it today...if + and - given correctly it opens
2. cold start fuel regulator..its input(the one with a fuel inpurity retainer) is blocked...i cant blow trough it....but this shouldnt affect the engine this way

You lost me here - 1. the primary system fuel pressure regulator is all mechanical. It's not an electro-valve. I think you have the pressure regulator confused with the auxiliary hot start valve which is an electro-valve and opens only at startup to purge any vapor-lock that might be in the lines. -And 2. cold start fuel regulator - Are you referring to the cold start valve there?

As for the problem, your prime suspects are the things that were touched - the air:fuel mix and the timing. I'm not convinced that they were so wrong before and are now right. If they are indeed now set right, there's the possibility that they were set wrong before as a work-around another problem and need to be set back that way until the other problem is fixed. First thing that comes to mind that might be affecting things in this way is the control pressure regulator (warm-up regulator) - was it verified good with a cis pressure tester?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9076
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with smoothie, doesn't sound like you've properly verified the function of the Warm-Up Regulator, which you'll need a CIS fuel pressure tester to do.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with you guys- why mess with the air/fuel mix and timing if it was ok?
Sounds like a good check here and fuel pressure checks are needed.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have no tools...no godamn mecanic in this godforsaken city will tuch my car...all i can get are some manometers....i cant test shit.
I belive the pump is still strong...and that air-fuel mix system is wrecked.
I'll try to buy an airbox to swap it with mines....when cold engine runs better....ignition dosent act that way...if its broke then its broke...it dosent fluctuate....i'll post pics soon. Thanks guys....
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok...i found a guy that has a 924 parts car...i'm buying a fuel distributor....that injection sistem...CIS its called...right ?...well how much should i pay for an used working part ?
no fuel lines just the distributor. Please reply tomorow i have to buy it and i dont know a decent price for that part...seller dosent know eighter.
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2327
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's in good working order, no more than 50€. But I suggest you buy all CIS system, that way you could test parts. I doubt that it's fuel dizzy that causes your problem.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the engine started to act this way after i unmounted it and toyed with that screw...i dont know what to say...i'm buying a distributor...my car has been sitting for 3 months now if it still works like that i'll buy a new coil and then the ignition system. could you guys price those parts too please ?
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me that you car is simply running too lean. Especially as you've backed the mixture screw all the way off.

Return the mixture screw closer to the centre of its range and see if that has any effect. If that seems to work, try tuning the mixture with a CO meter.

Failing that, try looking for air leaks in the rubber 'boots' feeding air into the engine.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx dude....i remounted the distributor today...i think i unmounted and remounted 10 times now...i turned clockwise that mixture screw about 30 times and i think thats the end of it...i set it to 15 360° turns from 0 and i'm going to try and start the car in a few hours...its luch time

I dont have a vacum gauge...how do i check the vacum lines corectly? the car did not pull as it should last time it ran(3 months ago)...only got 10.3 s 0-100 and over 17 on 1/4 mile
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i figured that the mixture screw has about 30 turns max and i set mines to 15 from 0(left)
As soon as i turned the key and the system pressurised i could hear the injectors spray....so i turned back 5x360° making it 10 turns from 0(left)
i could still hear the injectors spray...is my distributor bad ?
should it let the fuel reach the injectors if its arm is still down ? (no air lifting the arm up...)
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rat  



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 92
Location: Colchester, Essex, UK

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had similar problems with my car after my dad decided he would be "helpful" and fiddle with it while i was at uni. In the end my problems were missaligned plate on the airflow sensor, a broken wire to the electronic ignition box thing (bit that whines when you turn the ignition on..) timing out by a few degrees, and finally mixture way out which made it just refuse to run. Seems a very narrow band that will even allow the engine to run.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok...today i went to some guy who has lots of 924 parts....and i started replacing parts:

1. Distributor(ignition) car did not start
2. Coil(ignition) car did not start
3. Ignition box car did not start
4. I got it flooded so i cleaned the spark plugs
5. My distributor did not have a small coil on top of that litle piston that is pushed by the air plate(injection) i added one.
6. Car would not start.....
7. I noticed the wire leading to the coil(-) was almost wrecked...repaired it and car started...it still runs like that....not more than 4000 RPM when hot....it runs extreamly rich....if i stop i can feel the stinch...gas everywhere

The mecanic said that its the fuel pump....its not delivering enough fuel flow for the second throtle part...and the sparks are bad....i'm going to buy a new set of NGK's tomorow...and try to find a decent pump. Wish me luck guys...because all i had for 3 months was bad luck
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck, Mate!
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