924Board.org

[oregontom]

Hello all, new here. I purchased a 924 that was sitting in a field for about 5 years and I got sick of looking at it so I bought it. The engine turns but no fuel is getting to the injectors. Since, it has been neglected, I plan to do a thorough inside out analysis of what is wrong and what needs to happen to this car. It is really in bad shape. I do plan to do a drivers restoration to it and look forward to sharing all adventures with you.

Since it has sat for so long, what would you reccomemend as a course of action to get a assesment of the project. I will upload pics soon.
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[maireeka]

remove all the old gas and replace oil and all the filters!

that's the first thing I did with mine.
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1977 Porsche 924 red and READY!

[CBass]

Also, flush the brakes and check that they're in good working order. My car sat for a while before I bought it, and I got a seized caliper because of it.

Check the fuse block and make sure all electrical connections are clean and not corroded.

Your fuel problem is most likely a bad fuel pump relay. It's not a very expensive part, something like $15 and most german auto places should be able to get you one. When mine went out, I just ran a switch from unswitched power (#30 circuit) to the pump. I power the pump before cranking it, and it's also very useful for checking injector spray patterns and flow testing. It also means I can leave my car unlocked, and nobody knows enough to steal it.
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'81 931 in various states of assembly

[oregontom]

Thanks, today is first time to look in detail. Fuse block has a little corrosion but looks fine. The brake pedal goes to the floor, no pressure and plenty of fluid, so its going somewhere. I need to dig deeper into that. I will test the fuel relay this weekend. Shifter knob is broken off and I do not see any threading on the shaft to screw one back in, or was it threaded in the first place? This is a 4 speed right? Engine turns fine, no major oil leaks I can see off hand, but I will look closer. Do you guys do a degreasing before you start these projects? Any thing to cover other then electronics and throttlebody?
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[oregontom]

http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/front.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/shiftlever.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/engineR.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/rear.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/side.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~tallen/images/motor1.jpg
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[-nick]

Get ready for the wallet-vac! It could certainly be worse, the body looks pretty straight.

You two main problems are going to be fuel system and electrical.

fuel system:
If you unplug the wires going to the airflow metering plate (round aluminum thing that has a plate in it that goes up when air flows past), and turn the ignition to the on position, your fuel pump should turn on (this is for early cars with this plug only).

#1 Replace the fuel filter!
#2 Start by draining the tank and putting some fresh fuel in (a nasty job).
#3 Then take off the fuel line that goes into the fuel distributor from the tank (you should be able to trace it easily).
#4 Run the pump until the fuel coming out of the line is clean.
#5 Next unbolt the line going to the fuel pressure regulator (on the back of the intake) and run the fuel pump, then run the pump again with the line coming from the regulator open.
#6 Now unbolt the lines to all four injectors, lift the airflow plate by hand, and turn the pump on again until you have clean fuel coming through the lines.
#7 Now pull out the injectors and do it again.

This will at least give you a running chance of avoiding gunk in the fuel system components.

The above only works if you can get the fuel pump running in the first place though! Either the pump relay needs replaced, or the contacts to the relay in the relay holder block are corroded. Try to clean the contacts first of course. Jumpering the relay contacts will at least tell you that the fuel pump works.

There is also a ring of ground wires behind the relay box that will really need to be cleaned of corrosion.

The above should get you in the right direction!

PS- I can't tell, but either your shifter looks fine, or someone hacked the top off to make the knob sit down lower (not really such a bad thing). Ask someone here for an early 4-spd shifter. It just slides down over the rod and clamps with a spring-clamp thingy - no threads. Oh, yes it should be a 4spd, unless someone has swapped in a 5spd (they interchange pretty easily).

The brake problem is probably due to a bad master cylinder. Look behind the pedal for fluid, or around the MC on the firewall.

Degreasing/cleaning is always a good thing!

good luck!
nick

[oregontom]

Thanks for spending the time to type all that. I will follow that to a T and report back this weekend. Awesome post Nick.

Tom
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[gohim]

Problem with brakes can also be rear brake shoe adjustment.

This is a common problem with running 924 cars, because the rear brakes on cars with rear drum brakes do not have self-adjusters, and they do have diagonal brake circuits (right front caliper tied to left rear drum, and left front caliper tied to the right rear drum). So when the rear brake shoes wear out of adjustment, all of the brake fluid is used to pump up the rear brakes, and not press the front brake pads and rear brake shoes against the rotors and drums. The result is a brake pedal that sinks to the floor.

You can check for this by raising the rear end of the car off the ground (please use jackstands to support the car safely). Then pull the parking brake handle up exactly five clicks. Now try to turn the rear wheels by hand. If the rear wheels are not locked up, the rear brake shoe clearance needs to be adjusted, and this is probably your problem.

[oregontom]

Thanks, I see no obvious leaks on MC at all. I will check that out. Parking brake feels broken, no tension at all.
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[oregontom]

Where do you guys like to get parts online or mail order. I need a fuel pump relay and set of fuses. Tank drained today, removed and cleaned, was actually in great shape. Lines leading to fuel distribution center (dont know the name of it) all cleaned. New Fuel Filter. A good days work.
Power not gettting to pump so I assume its the relay. Fuse looked fine but old.
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[CBass]

That throttle body look suspiciously Weberish to me. Weird thing is, that's the third redline body I've seen in teh last two weeks.
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'81 931 in various states of assembly

[oregontom]

Ah you have identified the weber correctly...now, this was not stock for that , correct?

Today I put it up on jack stands to see the undercarriage and to determine why I have no brakes and why the pedal goes to the floor. I pumped the brakes many time and found puddles of fluid under each rear wheel. I am in the process of troubleshooting that one, ran out of time building my stupid wheel dollys I got at harbor freight so I can push the 924 around in the shop. More later...
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1977 924 basket case work in progress

[Gram]

Leaking rear brake cylinders. You need new kits/seals or maybe new cylinders.
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'82 924 NA Euro (hers)
'98 Audi A4 TDI (ours)

[gohim]

Wheel cylinders are standard VW parts. they are soooo cheap, that it is not worth screwing around with rebuilding them.

Cost is around $10-$15 each from AutoZone, Kragen or NAPA. AutoZone and Kragen will match any price, so look on the Net, print out the best price and carry the sheet into the store to get price match.

I use "www.stopshopanddrive" for most of the parts that I buy off the Internet. Other good suppliers are: Performance Products, Paragon Products, EBS, and ZIMS.

Do not buy from Vertex, GPR, Automobile Atlanta.

Many parts are competitive priced at Porsche Dealers, and you get a two year warranty. Get a copy of Excellence magazine to get ads from many Porsche Dealers with toll free phone number who will discount from List prices.

[tj924]