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CRASH!! w/ pics (pg.2)
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ill certainly agree that the 82' is the more desireable MY to have, having had several different year models, its definately the most refined . However, once you have damage like this, and having the option of swapping parts to a diffferent body, i think it would be the wise , safe move..
I wont pretend to be knowledgeable on repairs of this sort. i know only what ive gleamed from reading about it, and what ive been taught by a freind who had a body shop for several years. i saw him do some amazing repairs to cars far worse, but they were all massive jobs and he charged a premium for that work. "permanent" issues might include metal fatigue, stressed welds beyond the main impact point, possible alignment problems.. even the best body guys cant always get everything back the way its supposed to be. they have to compensate in some cases by removing material, then reinforcing it later, drill holes to bolt up their equipment, etc.. All of these things may have a cumulative effect, sometimes the compensating repairs will last "forever" , sometimes theyll show up later on and cause other problems (alignment difficulties, body sway, even rust in unseen places.) im not saying these things will happen, but there is the potential for them to happen, even with the best repairs.. point is, you can never be sure..
If it were me, id go the "swapover" route, and spent my money on improving an earlier car , rather than to repair a frame damaged late car. i think theres more bang for the buck there... and certainly more piece of mind over the long haul..
oh, and id think you could reinforce the unibody with "frame connectors" like they have for rustangs, no idea where youd put them, but it would make sense , at least in my (uneducated to any extent on this stuff) mind..??
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78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OUCH dang man that must of sucked when it happend..
Car looks nice with those white lwttered tires though...
I still have my bf goodrich ta radials 14s just waiting for
my next car. Yea fix up the ealry car.
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to agree with everyone here that thinks the '82 will be a wise move considering all factors.

Without getting to deep into it, it just makes sense. Coming from a guy who had to scrap a non-sunroof Championship Ed. car recently I know what it is to like the novelty of the SE.

Adding what you can from the '81 to that '82 will give you a very solid car. If you like the Weissach so much replicate it with the other one. Paint it the same color and transfer everything over. You claim not to care about resale value so authenticity should not be an issue. When you are done you will have a like new looking car that is nearly identicle to the Weissach.

Just $.02 from a guy who feels your pain.
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'81 924 2.0L T
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Mikri184  



Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Posts: 746
Location: Ferndale, WA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 1:50 pm    Post subject: Wiessachs Reply with quote

Man, That hurts, I don't think no matter what year you had in donor car, I think it would be best to let that one go. It looks like the frame is bent. Never will be perfect again. Too Bad, I loved my Wiessach's when I had it. Sorry to see that happen.
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felony4th  



Joined: 17 Jan 2004
Posts: 50
Location: Dayton, Ohio

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well dang, gohim, why didn't ya tell me that stuff earlier?


924guy wrote:
If it were me, id go the "swapover" route, and spent my money on improving an earlier car , rather than to repair a frame damaged late car.


I think you've got the two cars backwards- the '81 is crashed, the '82 has a good body with much more mileage on the motor and chassis. But- under the advise of the good forum, I think the most beneficial action I could take would be to cut my emotional losses and revive the '82. The call of the screaming wallet beckons me. Yeah, reinforced roof.. I like the sound of that......

my924gtc wrote:
Without getting to deep into it, it just makes sense. Coming from a guy who had to scrap a non-sunroof Championship Ed. car recently I know what it is to like the novelty of the SE.


ok- that had to hurt.

If i go with the '82 I won't be painting it. White's cool.

my924gtc wrote:
You claim not to care about resale value so authenticity should not be an issue.


I don't understand that. I liked the car. Authenticity matters- what in the world are people paying big money for at classic car auctions? The priveledge to pay big money? 1/400- I liked that.

Oh well. Efficiency must prevail.


thanks fellas

bk

'81 924 Weissach- gone.
'87 924S- parts
'82 924- reinforced roof...
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

felony4th wrote:


A reduced re-sale value is not an issue here. I do not intend to ever sell the car. Hell, I bought the car for $1600.

I understand that the weissach is basically a cosmetic package- but I, personally, adore the overall scheme and color. It's also kinda nice to say "limited edition porsche". It has a certain ring to it....



I meant if you like the scheme of the car and you do not intend on selling it then replicate it using the '82.
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'81 924 2.0L T
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felony4th  



Joined: 17 Jan 2004
Posts: 50
Location: Dayton, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:39 pm    Post subject: ok Reply with quote

ok fellas,

about how many hours would be involved in removing two motors, and installing one?

I figure it should be pretty straight-forward, with most of the time being eaten by electrical/wiring, coolant and fuel line connections, mating it to the tranny. Hopefully one clutch is in good enough shape to reuse.

The exhaust system will also have to be bolted on- but that shouldn't be any trouble.

As opposed to knowing anyone who is capable of major bodywork, I do have a good porsche mechanic- but I want to make sure he doesn't go too liberal with the total bill for this particular job.


thanks again guys,

bk
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have come to your senses, and are going to scrap the wreck, then I recommend that you simply cut the front end to gain quick access to the engine you are going to salvage.

According to the "Official" Mitchell Repair Manual that many/most Repair Shops base their labor time charges on, six hours is the time to Remove and Install the engine. Most decent mechanics can do a job in 1/3-1/2 of the "book time. I know that most procedures that I complete on my cars I can do in 1/4-1/2 (averaging 1/3) time.

This would not take into account the time lost due to fighting with bent sheet metal.

So I would guess that you are going to get charged around 12 labor hours (figuring 4 hours to remove the engine from the wreck, and 2 hours to remove the engine from the transplantee, 2 hours for clean up and exchange necessary parts, and 4 hours to reinstall and reconnect).

You could probably save 2-3 hours removing the engine from the wreck sawing off the left inner fender and frame, and the front of the car.

Why can't you remove the engine from the wreck yourself, prep it for reinstallation by inspecting, cleaning, inspecting the clutch, and replacing the hoses and gaskets as necessary, then delivering it to the shop ready for reinstallation? You may be able to save 1/2 the labor charge that way.
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felony4th  



Joined: 17 Jan 2004
Posts: 50
Location: Dayton, Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just don't have the capability to remove an engine.

How can I lift it out and transport it?

I have some hand tools- but that's about it.

THANKS for the info, though, Gohim.

bk
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Current labor rates being what they are, you could rent a truck (home depot, $20 for 2-3 hours?), and buy a recipricating saw, a engine hoist (rent $50, or buy $125), and whatever handtools (harbor freight) you don't have to pull the engine for less than your mechanic is going to charge you to pull the engine.
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Sleykin  



Joined: 30 Apr 2003
Posts: 758
Location: Medford, Oregon USA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gohim wrote:
Current labor rates being what they are, you could rent a truck (home depot, $20 for 2-3 hours?), and buy a recipricating saw, a engine hoist (rent $50, or buy $125), and whatever handtools (harbor freight) you don't have to pull the engine for less than your mechanic is going to charge you to pull the engine.


And you would still have the tools when you are done Any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one!
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So far your the only guy thats wrecked in the snow there dude.
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